Painting cabinets is one of the most impactful DIY projects you can tackle, and over the years I’ve painted more cabinets than I can count—from kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities to laundry room built-ins and storage cabinets. Through plenty of trial and error, I’ve refined my process into a simple, repeatable system that delivers smooth, durable, professional-looking results every time. If you’re feeling intimidated by the thought of painting cabinets, don’t worry. I’ll walk you through each step, share the products and tools I use, and explain exactly how to achieve a factory-like finish without the cost of replacing your cabinets. If you’re looking to paint Ikea cabinets, that’s a bit of a different process. Don’t worry- I’ve got you covered! Check out that tutorial here.
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Step 1: Remove & Organize Hinges
If you’re painting new stock cabinets, I highly recommend drilling for your hardware before you ever open a can of paint. The last thing you want is to spend hours achieving a beautiful finish only to slip with a drill bit and damage your freshly painted doors.
I use a simple method with painter’s tape to ensure every knob and pull is perfectly level and consistently placed. Apply a piece of painter’s tape to the door, mark your measurements, and drill one cabinet door first. Then move the tape to each remaining door and use it as a template. This keeps every piece of hardware in the exact same position for a professional-looking finish.
Step 2: Determine Hardware Placement
If you’re painting new stock cabinets, I highly recommend drilling for your hardware before you ever open a can of paint. The last thing you want is to spend hours achieving a beautiful finish only to slip with a drill bit and damage your freshly painted doors.
Prevent Tear-Out
Don’t jump straight to the final drill bit size. Instead, start with a small pilot hole and gradually increase the bit size until you reach the correct diameter. This helps prevent tear-out, which occurs when wood fibers splinter as the drill bit exits the material.
Always drill from the front of the cabinet door. If tear-out does occur, it will be hidden on the back side of the door.
Tip: If you’re installing new knobs or pulls, you can also use a cabinet hardware jig or a template to ensure every hole is perfectly level and consistently spaced. Taking a few extra minutes to measure carefully will give your cabinets a polished, professional look.
Step 3: Choose the Right Sandpaper Grit
The amount of sanding your cabinets need depends on their material and condition. Regardless of the finish, your goal is to create a smooth surface for the primer to bond to.
One of my favorite painting tips is this: If you can feel it, you’ll be able to see it once it’s painted. Any scratches, dents, or rough spots will become even more noticeable after painting.
I typically use:
- 80-grit: Remove imperfections and scuff the existing finish.
- 120-grit: Smooth the surface.
- 220-grit: Create a silky-smooth finish before priming.
Sand the Doors & Cabinet Boxes
Since you’re painting your cabinets, you don’t need to sand them down to bare wood. Simply dull the existing finish and create a smooth, even surface for the primer.
Use the same sanding process on the cabinet doors, drawer fronts, and cabinet boxes to ensure a consistent finish.
Remove Dust Before Priming
Once sanding is complete, wipe every surface with a tack cloth to remove dust. Even a small amount of leftover dust can leave bumps in your primer and paint.
If you’re filling scratches, dents, or old hardware holes, apply wood filler before priming. Once it dries, sand it smooth.
Step 4: Caulk
Before priming, I like to caulk the seam where the center panel meets the rails and stiles of each cabinet door. This small step helps create a cleaner, more finished look once the cabinets are painted.
Over time, these joints can develop small gaps where paint tends to settle and pool, leaving an uneven finish. Filling the seam with a thin bead of paintable caulk helps eliminate those gaps and creates a smoother transition between the center panel and the frame.
To apply the caulk, run a thin, even bead along the seam. Immediately smooth it with your finger to press the caulk into the gap, then wipe away any excess with a damp cloth. The goal is to fill the seam—not leave a thick line of caulk behind.
Allow the caulk to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions before moving on to priming.
Pro Tip: Less is more! Applying a thin bead of caulk is much easier to smooth than trying to remove excess later. A properly caulked seam should almost disappear once it’s painted.
Step 5: Prime
When it comes to primer, I always recommend Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer (the red label). While the blue label also works well, if you’re painting IKEA cabinets, the red label is a must for proper adhesion. It’s more expensive (typically $70–90 per gallon), but it’s worth the investment. It bonds exceptionally well to glossy surfaces and seals in grease, stains, and other contaminants.
I apply two coats of primer. Start by using a brush to get into the grooves where the center panel meets the rails and stiles, then use a high-density foam roller on the larger, flat surfaces for a smooth finish.
After each coat dries, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper, then wipe away all dust with a tack cloth before applying the next coat.
Repeat the same process on the cabinet boxes to ensure a consistent finish.
Pro Tip: Sanding between primer coats may seem like an extra step, but it’s the secret to achieving a smooth, professional-looking finish once the paint is applied.
first coat of primer on cabinets
Step 6: Paint
For paint, I always use Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel. It levels beautifully, creates a smooth, furniture-like finish, and is durable enough to stand up to everyday wear and tear.
The painting process is the same as priming. Use a brush to paint the grooves where the center panel meets the rails and stiles, then use a high-density foam roller on the larger, flat surfaces.
Apply two coats of paint. After the first coat dries, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper and wipe clean with a tack cloth before applying the second coat. Do not sand the final coat.
Repeat the same process on the cabinet boxes, then allow the paint to fully cure before reinstalling the doors and hardware.
Step 7: Install
Once you’ve finished painting, be patient! Although the paint may feel dry to the touch within a day or two, I recommend waiting about one week before reinstalling the doors and hardware. This gives the paint time to cure and helps prevent dents, scratches, or impressions while you’re handling the cabinets.
When reinstalling the doors, tighten the hinges just enough to hold the door in place, then make any necessary adjustments to ensure the gaps between doors are even before fully tightening the screws.
Pro Tip: Place a soft towel or piece of cardboard on your work surface while reinstalling the doors to help protect your freshly painted finish from scratches.
Project Timeline
Every project is a little different, but here’s a general timeline to help you plan:
Day 1
- Remove doors and hardware
- Drill hardware holes
- Sand cabinets
- Apply caulk
Day 2
- Apply two coats of primer
Day 3
- Apply two coats of paint
After About One Week
- Reinstall the doors, hinges, and hardware once the paint has fully cured.
Final Thoughts
Painting kitchen cabinets is one of the most impactful DIY projects you can tackle. While it takes time and patience, the results are well worth the effort—and for a fraction of the cost of replacing your cabinets. You can see the whole laundry room project here.
The key to a professional-looking finish isn’t rushing to the paint. Taking the time to properly clean, sand, prime, and apply thin, even coats will make all the difference in how your cabinets look and how well they hold up over time.
If you’re willing to put in the prep work, you can completely transform your kitchen with a finish you’ll be proud of for years to come. Happy painting!
Materials
- sink base cabinet
- pantry cabinet
- wall bridge cabinet
- screwdriver
- drill
- drill bits
- caulk
- caulk gun
- painter’s tape
- wood filler
- primer
- paint
- paint brush (cheaper for primer)
- paint brush
- rollers
- sanding block multi grit pack
- shiplap panels
- cabinet grade plywood
- butcher block countertops
- cremone bolts
- cabinet knobs with backplate
- similar knobs
- similar backplate
- large pull for drying rack
- contact paper
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Do I need to sand my cabinets down to bare wood before painting?
No. If you’re painting your cabinets, you only need to sand enough to remove the gloss and create a smooth surface for the primer to adhere to. The goal is to scuff the existing finish—not strip the cabinets completely.
2. What is the best primer for painting kitchen cabinets?
I highly recommend Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer (red label). It provides excellent adhesion, seals stains and grease, and is especially important if you’re painting IKEA cabinets or other factory-finished surfaces.
3. What paint should I use for kitchen cabinets?
For the best durability and finish, I use Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel. It levels beautifully, dries to a smooth finish, and holds up well to everyday wear and tear.
4. Should I sand between coats of primer and paint?
Yes—but only between coats. Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper after each coat of primer and after the first coat of paint to create a smooth, professional-looking finish. Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth before applying the next coat. Do not sand the final coat of paint.
5. How long should I wait before reinstalling my cabinet doors?
Although the paint may feel dry within a day or two, it’s best to wait about one week before reinstalling the doors, hinges, and hardware. Allowing the paint to cure helps prevent scratches, dents, and impressions while handling the cabinets.
